Composition and method for levelling hair colour

ABSTRACT

The present invention relates to a composition and a method of levelling hair color especially lighter colored hair or including lightened streaks or bleached streaks or bleached as a whole and after certain period of time contrast—difference in color—between the re-growth and formerly lightened parts is clearly visible. The first objective of the present invention is an aqueous composition for levelling hair color comprising at least one fatty acid salt, preferably an in-situ formed ammonium salt, and one or more amphoteric surfactants at a total concentration between 5 and 30% by weight, calculated to total of the composition, and has a pH between 5 and 12. Further the use of the composition for levelling hair color and the method of levelling hair color are disclosed.

This application is a 371 application of PCT/EP2010/004006 filed Jul. 2,2010, which claims foreign priority benefit under 35 U.S.C. §119 ofEuropean Application No. 09008901.2 filed Jul. 8, 2009.

The present invention relates to a composition and a method of levellinghair colour, especially lighter coloured hair or including lightenedstreaks or bleached streaks or bleached as a whole and after certainperiod of time contrast—difference in colour—between the re-growth andformerly lightened parts is clearly visible.

Making streaks, lightening and bleaching are commonly used hair dressingpractices. The aim of such hair dressing services is to get lightercoloured hair parts, or colouring hair to a lighter shade and finallybleaching hair—taking away hair colour as a whole—in order to giveattractive appearance. In practice, immediately after such service,consumers' hair has very attractive appearance and naturalness, but thislasts only for a limited period of time because of unattractive contrastbetween the re-growth and lighter coloured and/or lightened parts bymeans of bleaching becomes clearly visible. This is especially problemwhen the uncoloured natural hair is considerably darker, i.e. re-growthhas a considerably darker colour than the lighter coloured parts. Colourdifference does reduce attractiveness and naturalness and it is highlydesirable to give hair attractive colour appearance again withoutextensive additional chemical treatments. Especially, since suchcorrection is often needed in a relatively short period of time afterprevious chemical treatment, the corrective treatment must not take along time, preferably must easily be combinable with other type of hairdressing services, such as hair styling and preferably not involving anyfurther chemical treatments. In other words, the corrective treatmentshould not cause any further damage to the hair or the damage caused bysuch service should be negligible compared to the damage caused by theprevious colouring and/or bleaching.

After a long discussion with hair dressers and the end-user groups, theneeds have been clearly identified of such a service. On these bases,various ways have been practiced and surprisingly found out that alevelling service combined with any hair care service is especiallysuited and it is easily applicable in any hair dressing salons.

It has further been identified that with the existing products and/orcompositions, might be thought suitable for levelling hair colour, causeoften dermatological incompatibilities with scalp such as itchiness,redness and scaling reported by volunteers.

Therefore, present invention starts from the problems of effective andeasy applicable levelling service wherein the compositions and/ormixtures used for this purpose are mild to skin and do not cause anydermatological incompatibilities.

The inventors of the present invention have surprisingly found out thatan aqueous composition comprising at least one fatty acid salt,preferably an in-situ formed ammonium salt and one or more amphotericsurfactants at a total concentration between 5 and 30% by weight,calculated to total of the composition, and having a pH in the rangebetween 5 and 12 is perfectly suitable for levelling hair colour.

Thus, the first objective of the present invention is an aqueouscomposition for levelling hair colour comprising at least one fatty acidsalt, preferably an in-situ formed ammonium salt, and one or moreamphoteric surfactants at a total concentration between 5 and 30% byweight, calculated to total of the composition, and has a pH between 5and 12.

The second objective of the present invention is a ready to use aqueouscomposition for levelling hair colour resulting from mixing twocompositions, A and B, prior to application onto hair whereincomposition A comprises at least one oxidizing agent and has an acidicpH, preferably between 2 and 5, and composition B comprises at least onefatty acid salt, preferably an ammonium salt formed in-situ and one ormore amphoteric surfactants at a total concentration between 5 and 30%by weight, calculated to total of the composition, and has a pH between5 and 12.

The third objective of the present invention is a method of levellingcolour of hair comprising at least two parts wherein one part being thepart not closer to scalp which is artificially colour changed to alighter colour by means of lightening and/or colouring and/or bleachingthan the other part closer to scalp which is preferably undamaged andhas its natural colour, wherein hair is optionally shampooed andoptionally towel dried and the part directly at the scalp, preferablyundamaged and preferably has its natural colour, is applied acomposition resulting from mixing two compositions, A and B, prior toapplication, wherein composition A comprises at least one oxidizingagent and has an acidic pH, preferably between 2 and 5 and composition Bcomprises at least one fatty acid salt, preferably an ammonium saltformed in-situ and one or more amphoteric surfactants at a totalconcentration between 5 and 30% by weight, calculated to total of thecomposition, and has a pH between 5 and 12, and processed for up to 10min, preferably between 1 and 8 min, more preferably between 2 and 7 minand most preferably between 2 and 5 min (all values are included) at atemperature between 20 and 45° C., preferably at an ambient temperatureand rinsed off from hair and hair is optionally dried.

Further objective of the present invention is to use of the abovecomposition and process for levelling hair colour.

It should be noted that with the term non-ionic surfactant, thesurfactants without silicone in their molecule are meant.

With the term “levelling” it is meant that hair colour is made moreuniform, if not equal, among the parts, preferably between two parts,having different colours wherein one part is artificially colour changedto a lighter colour than its natural colour by means of colouring and/orlightening and/or bleaching either as a whole or only in streaks whichis not closer to the scalp and the other part which is closer to thescalp and being undamaged and having darker and preferably naturalcolour than the remaining part of the hair.

With the phrase “being not closer to the scalp” it is meant the part ofhair towards to the tips.

With the phrase “being closer to the scalp” it is meant the hair thathas grown since the previous colouration (re-growth) and it is betweenscalp and colour changed part.

It should be noted that the composition, use of it and the method of thepresent invention is certainly suitable for levelling colour ofsun-lightened hair, especially seasonally, and/or age-darkened hair aswell.

Throughout the description, the definitions “composition B” and “aqueouscomposition” are used interchangeably and have the same meaning.

Composition B comprises at least one fatty acid salt, preferably formedin situ and preferably it is an ammonium or substituted ammonium salt.In principal salt of any fatty acid, preferably ammonium or substitutedammonium salt, saturated or unsaturated, branched or straight andsubstituted or unsubstituted is suitable for the purpose of the presentinvention. Non-limiting suitable examples are especially ammonium orsubstituted ammonium salts of lauric acid, myristic acid, palmitic acid,palmitoleic acid, stearic acid, oleic acid, linoleic acid and ricinoleicacid. Preferred are especially ammonium or substituted ammonium salts ofmyristic acid, palmitic acid, palmitoleic acid, stearic acid, oleicacid, linoleic acid and ricinoleic acid. More preferred are especiallyammonium or substituted ammonium salts of palmitoleic acid, oleic acid,linoleic acid and ricinoleic acid and the most preferred are especiallyammonium or substituted ammonium salts of oleic and linoleic acids.

Concentration of fatty acid salt varies between 0.5 and 20% preferably 1and 15, more preferably 2 and 12.5 and most preferably 5 to 10% byweight calculated to the total of composition B.

The salt is formed in-situ during the preparation of the composition Bwith the reaction of fatty acid with an amine compound which is eitherammonia (including ammonium hydroxide) or a substituted ammoniumcompound according to general formulaR₁R₂R₃Nwherein R₁, R₂ and R₃ are same or different H, C₁-C₆ alkyl, C₁-C₆monohydroxyalkyl or C₂-C₆ polyhydroxyalkyl with the condition that atleast one of R₁, R₂ and R₃ is a mono or polyhydroxyalkyl.

Suitable alkanolamines according to the general formula above aremonoethanolamine, diethanolamine, triethanolamine, monoethanolmethylamine, monoethanoldimethylamine, di-ethanol/methylamine,monoethanolethylamine, monoethanoldiethylamine, diethanolethylamine,monoethanolpropylamine, monoethanoldipropylamine, diethanolpropylamine,monoethanolbutylamine and diethanolbutylamine.

Preferred are monoethanolamine, diethanolamine and triethanolamine. Themost preferred is monoethanolamine.

Concentration of the ammonia or the amine compound according to thegeneral formula above is dependent on the concentration of the fattyacid and also dependent on the alkalinity value targeted. In general itvaries between 1 and 20%, preferably 1 and 15, more preferably 1 and12.5 and most preferably 1 to 10% by weight calculated to the total ofcomposition B.

Composition B comprises one or more amphoteric surfactants. Useful arein particular the various known betaines such as alkyl betaines, fattyacid amidoalkyl betaines and sulfobetaines, for example, laurylhydroxysulfobetaine; long-chain alkyl amino acids, such ascocoaminoacetate, cocoaminopropionate and sodium cocoamphopropionate and-acetate have also proven suitable.

In detail, it is possible to use betaines of the structure

wherein R₄ is a C₈-C₁₈-alkyl group and n is 1 to 3;sulfobetaines of the structure

wherein R₄ and n are same as above;and amidoalkyl betaines of the structure

wherein R₄ and n are same as above.

Suitable nonlimiting examples are almondamidopropyl betaine,apricotamidopropyl betaine, avocadoamidopropyl betaine,babasuamidopropyl betaine, behenamidopropyl betaine, cocamidopropylbetaine, lauramidopropyl betaine, myristylamidopropyl betaine,oleamidopropyl betaine, olivamidopropyl betaine, palmamidopropylbetaine, palmitamidopropyl betaine, ricinoleamidopropyl betaine,sesamamidopropyl betaine, soyamidopropyl betaine, stearamidopropylbetaine, behenyl betaine, cetyl betaine, myristyl betaine, laurylbetaine, coco betaine, decyl betaine, oleyl betaine, stearyl betaine,tallow betaine, cocamidopropyl hydroxysultaine, coco hydroxysultaine,coco sultaine, lauramidopropyl hydroxysultaine, lauryl hydroxysultaine,myristamidopropyl hydroxysultaine, oleamidopropyl hydroxysultaine andlauryl sultaine

Preferred amphoteric surfactants are of betaine types such as cocobetaine and cocoylamidpropyl betaine.

Composition B further can comprise one or more surfactants selected fromanionic, non-ionic and cationic ones at a total concentration up to 15%by weight, calculated to total of Composition B.

Composition B preferably comprises additionally one or more anionicsurfactants at a total concentration up to 15% by weight calculated tototal of composition B.

Preferably the weight ratio of amphoteric to anionic surfactants is inthe range between 5:1 to 1:1 and more preferably 4:1 to 2:1 and mostpreferable 3:1 to 2:1.

Nonlimiting suitable examples of anionic surfactants are the sulfate,sulfonate, carboxylate and alkyl phosphate type, especially, of course,those customarily used C₁₀-C₁₈-alkyl sulfates, and in particular therespective ether sulfates, for example, C₁₂-C₁₄-alkyl ether sulfate,lauryl ether sulfate, especially with 1 to 4 ethylene oxide groups inthe molecule, monoglyceride (ether) sulfates, fatty acid amide sulfatesobtained by ethoxylation and subsequent sulfatation of fatty acidalkanolamides, and the alkali salts thereof, as well as the salts oflong-chain mono- and dialkyl phosphates and their salts.

Particular reference is made to the fatty alcohol ether sulfates of thegeneral structureR₅(OCH₂CH₂)_(n)OSO₃Mwherein R₅ is a saturated or unsaturated, straight or branched,substituted or unsubstituted alkyl chain with 10 to 18 C atoms, n isfrom 1 to 5 and M is a cation, preferably sodium or potassium.

Suitable examples are ammonium capryleth sulphate, ammonium C12-15pareth sulphate, ammonium laureth sulphate, ammonium laureth-5 sulphate,ammonium myreth sulphate, DEA C12-13 pareth-3 sulphate, DEA laurethsulphate, DEA myreth sulphate, diethylamine laureth sulphate, magnesiumcoceth sulphate, magnesium laureth sulphate, magnesium laureth-5sulphate, magnesium myreth sulphate, magnesium oleth sulphate, MEAlaureth sulphate, MIPA C12-15 pareth sulphate, MIPA laureth sulphate,sodium coceth sulphate, sodium C9-15 pareth-3 sulphate, sodium C10-15pareth-3 sulphate, sodium C12-16 pareth-2 sulphate, sodium C12-13 parethsulphate, sodium C12-14 pareth-3 sulphate, sodium C12-15 parethsulphate, sodium C12-15 pareth-3 sulphate, sodium C13-15 pareth-3sulphate, sodium doceth sulphate, sodium laneth sulphate, sodium laurethsulphate, sodium laureth-5 sulphate, sodium myreth sulphate, sodiumoleth sulphate, TEA laureth sulphate, TEA laneth sulphate and TIPAlaureth sulphate.

Further anionic surfactants of the carboxylate type are alkyl polyethercarboxylic acids and the salts thereof of the formulaR₆—(C₂H₄O)_(n)—O—CH₂COOX,wherein R₆ is a C₈-C₂₀-alkyl group, preferably a C₁₂-C₁₄-alkyl group, nis a number from 1 to 20, preferably 2 to 17, and X is H or preferably acation of the group sodium, potassium, magnesium and ammonium, which canoptionally be hydroxyalkyl-substituted, as well as alkyl amido polyethercarboxylic acids of the general formula

wherein R₆ and X have the above meanings, and n is in particular anumber from 1 to 10, preferably 2.5 to 5.

Further suitable anionic surfactants are also C₈-C₂₂-acylaminocarboxylic acids or the water-soluble salts thereof. Suitable onesare N-lauroyl glutamate, in particular as sodium salt, as well as, forexample, N-lauroyl sarcosinate, N—C₁₂-C₁₈-acyl asparaginic acid,N-myristoyl sarcosinate, N-oleoyl sarcosinate, N-lauroyl methylalanine,N-lauroyl lysine and N-lauroyl aminopropyl glycine, preferably in formof the water-soluble alkali or ammonium, in particular the sodium saltsthereof, preferably in admixture with the above-named anionicsurfactants.

Among the anionic surfactants preferred are alkyl ether sulphates, alkylpolyether carboxylic acids, alkyl amido polyether carboxylic acids andacyl aminocarboxylic acids and their salts.

Composition B can further comprise one or more non-ionic surfactants ata concentration up to 15% by weight calculated to total of compositionB, preferably with the condition non-ionic surfactant system has an HLBvalue not exceeding but including 10, preferably between 1 and 9 andmore preferably between 2 and 8 and most preferably between 4 and 7,calculated from the mol fraction of individual non-ionic surfactantsexcluding non-ionic silicone surfactants in the non-ionic surfactantmixture and individual HLB values of non-ionic surfactant (see below forcalculation of system HLB value with the example).

Suitable non-ionic surfactants are alkyl polyglucosides of the generalformulaR₇—O—(R₈O)_(n)O—Z_(x)wherein R₇ is an alkyl group with 8 to 18 carbon atoms, R₈ is anethylene or propylene group, Z is a saccharide group with 5 to 6 carbonatoms, n is a number from 0 to 10 and x is a number between 1 and 5.Examples are decyl glucoside, carpylyl glucoside, ceteary glucoside,cocoyl ethyl glucoside, lauryl glucoside, myristyl glucoside and cocoglucoside. Preferred are decyl glucoside and coco glucoside which arecommericially available with the trade name Plantacare from the companyCognis.

Further non-ionic surfactants suitable are long-chain fatty acid mono-and dialkanolamides according to the general structure

wherein R₉ is an alkyl chain which may be saturated or unsaturated,straight or branched, substituted or unsubstituted with a length of 8 to22 C atoms, preferably 10 to 18 and more preferably 12 to 18 C atoms,R₁₀ and R₁₁ are same or different H, C₁ to C₄ alkyl or hydroxyl alkyl,preferably C₂ hydroxy alkyl with the condition that at least one of theR₇ and R₈ is not H.

Suitable non-limiting examples are behenoyl monoethanolamide, cocomonoethanolamide, isostearoyl monoethanolamide, lauroylmonoethanolamide, myristoyl monoethanolamide, oleoyl monoethanolamide,ricinoleoyl monoethanolamide, stearoyl monoethanolamide, behenoyldiethanolamide, caproyl diethanolamide, cocoyl diethanolamide,isostearoyl diethanolamide, lauroyl diethanolamide, lineloylmonoethanolamide, myristoyl monoethanolamide, oleoyl monoethanolamide,palmitoyl diethanolamide, ricinoleoyl monoethanolamide and stearoylmonoethanolamide,

Further additionally useful non-ionic surfactants are, for example, thevarious sorbitan esters, such as polyethylene glycol sorbitan stearicacid ester, fatty acid polyglycol esters or poly-condensates ofethyleneoxide and propyleneoxide, as they are on the market, forexample, under the trade name “Pluronics®”.

Another type of nonionic surfactants and the preferred ones areC₁₀-C₂₂-fatty alcohol ethoxylates. Especially suited are C₁₀-C₂₂-fattyalcohol ethers with the average degree of ethoxylation between 1 and 25,preferably 2 and 20, more preferably 2 to 10. Suitable examples areoleth-2, oleth-3, oleth-4, oleth-5, oleth-6, oleth-7, oleth-8, oleth-9,oleth-10, oleth-11, oleth-12, oleth-15, oleth-16, oleth-20, oleth-25,laureth-2, laureth-3, laureth-4, laureth-5, laureth-6, laureth-7,laureth-8, laureth-9, laureth-10, laureth-11, laureth-12, laureth-13,laureth-15, laureth-16, laureth-20, laureth-25, ceteth-10, ceteth-12,ceteth-14, ceteth-15, ceteth-16, ceteth-17, ceteth-20, ceteth-25,cetoleth-10, cetoleth-12, cetoleth-14, cetoleth-15, cetoleth-16,cetoleth-17, cetoleth-20, cetoleth-25, ceteareth-10, ceteareth-12,ceteareth-14, ceteareth-15, ceteareth-16, ceteareth-18, ceteareth-20,ceteareth-22, ceteareth-25, isosteareth-10, isosteareth-12,isosteareth-15, isosteareth-20, isosteareth-22, isosteareth-25,steareth-10, steareth-11, steareth-14, steareth-15, steareth-16,steareth-20, and steareth-25.

Further suitable and preferred non-ionic surfactants are glyceryl fattyacid esters according to the general formula

wherein R₁₂ and R₁₃ are same or different H, or a fatty acid group whichmay be saturated or unsaturated, branched or straight, substituted orunsubstituted with a C number between 10 and 22 with the condition atleast one of the R₁₂ and R₁₃ is a fatty acyl group. The esters accordingthe above general structure has preferably C number between 12 and 18and more preferably 14 and 18. In particular glyceryl steric acid estersare preferred.

Most preferred glyceryl fatty acid esters are glyceryl stearate andglyceryl distearate.

Further non-ionic surfactants within the meaning of the presentinvention are polyalkyleneglycol ether of fatty acid glyceride orpartial glyceride with at least 20 polyalkylene units, especially with20 to 150, more preferably 20 to 100, most preferably 30 to 75polyethyleneglycol units. Examples to those are PEG-30 hydrogenatedcastor oil, PEG-35 hydrogenated castor oil, PEG-40 hydrogenated castoroil, PEG-45 hydrogenated castor oil, PEG-50 hydrogenated castor oil,PEG-55 hydrogenated castor oil, PEG-60 hydrogenated castor oil, PEG-65hydrogenated castor oil, PEG-80 hydrogenated castor oil, PEG-100hydrogenated castor oil, PEG-200 hydrogenated castor oil, PEG-35 castoroil, PEG-50 castor oil, PEG-55 castor oil, PEG-60 castor oil, PEG-80castor oil, PEG-100 castor oil. Additional examples of similar compoundscan be found in the cosmetic ingredient dictionaries and cosmetictextbooks.

Further suitable non-ionic surfactants within the meaning of presentinvention are glycol fatty acid esters according to the generalstructure

wherein R₁₄ is a saturated or unsaturated, branched or straight,substituted or unsubstituted alkyl with a 9 to 21 C atoms and R₁₅ is Hor a saturated or unsaturated, branched or straight, substituted orunsubstituted acyl with 10 to 22 C atoms.

Suitable non-limiting examples are glycol cetearate, glycol dibehenate,glycol dilaurate, glycol dioleate, glycol stearate, glycol distearate,glycol oleate, glycol palmitate, glycol ricinoleate, and glycol stearateSE. Most preferred are glycol stearate SE, glycol stearate and glycoldistearate.

Among the non-ionic surfactants mentioned above fatty alcoholethoxylates and fatty acid glyceryl esters and glycol fatty acid estersand their mixtures at any weight ratio are the most preferred ones.

In a preferred form of the present invention, composition B comprises atleast one fatty alcohol ethoxylate, at least one glyceryl fatty acidester and at least one glycol fatty acid ester. In a further preferredembodiment the surfactants are contained at a weight ratio of fattyalcohol ethoxylate:glyceryl fatty acid ester:glycol fatty acid esterbetween 1:0.1:0.05 and 1:1:0.5, preferably between 1:0.2:0.1 and1:0.75:0.4, more preferably between 1:0.3:0.15 and 1:0.6:0.3 and mostpreferably between 1:0.4:0.2 and 1:0.6:0.3.

System HLB value of the non-ionic surfactants is calculated from theirmol fraction in the non-ionic surfactant mixture starting from theirconcentration in the mixture in weight % followed by calculation oftheir concentration in mol by dividing the concentration by molecularweight of the surfactants. Afterwards, the total non-ionic surfactantconcentration in mol is calculated and mol fraction of each surfactantin the system is calculated by dividing the mol concentration of asurfactant in the system with the total non-ionic surfactantconcentration in mol. In order to calculate the system HLB value,subsequently, mol fraction of each non-ionic surfactant is multiplied byits HLB value and sum of the resulting numbers is system HLB value. Thesilicone non-ionic surfactants are excluded as a rule from calculationof the HLB value of the non-ionic surfactant system and, therefore,wherever any HLB value is referred throughout the description and claimsof the present application, it should be understood that the non-ionicsilicone surfactants are not meant, unless otherwise stated.

HLB values of some non-ionic surfactants are given in Table I.

TABLE I HLB values of non-ionic surfactants Glycol Distearate HLB = 1Sorbitan Trioleate HLB = 1.8 Propylene Glycol Isostearate HLB = 2.5Glycol Stearate HLB = 2.9 Sorbitan Sesquioleate HLB = 3.7 GlycerylStearate HLB = 3.8 Sorbitan Oleate HLB = 4.3 Sorbitan Monostearate NFHLB = 4.7 Sorbitan Stearate HLB = 4.7 Sorbitan Isostearate HLB = 4.7Steareth-2 HLB = 4.9 Oleth-2 HLB = 4.9 Glyceryl Laurate HLB = 5.2Ceteth-2 HLB = 5.3 PEG-30 Dipolyhydroxystearate HLB = 5.5 GlycerylStearate SE HLB = 5.8 PEG-4 Dilaurate HLB = 6 Laureth-2 HLB = 6.2 MethylGlucose Sesquistearate HLB = 6.6 PEG-8 Dioleate HLB = 8 Sorbitan LaurateHLB = 8.6 PEG-40 Sorbitan Peroleate HLB = 9 Laureth-4 HLB = 9.7 PEG-7Glyceryl Cocoate HLB = 10 PEG-20 Almond Glycerides HLB = 10 PEG-25Hydrogenated Castor Oil HLB = 10.8 Stearamide MEA HLB = 11 Polysorbate85 HLB = 11 PEG-7 Olivate HLB = 11 Cetearyl Glucoside HLB = 11 PEG-8Oleate HLB = 11.6 Oleth-10 HLB = 12.4 Ceteth-10 HLB = 12.9 PEG-8 LaurateHLB = 13 Cocamide MEA HLB = 13.5 Polysorbate 60 NF HLB = 14.9Polysorbate 60 HLB = 14.9 Polysorbate 80 HLB = 15 Isosteareth-20 HLB =15 PEG-60 Almond Glycerides HLB = 15 Ceteareth-20 HLB = 15.2 Oleth-20HLB = 15.3 Steareth-20 HLB = 15.3 Steareth-21 HLB = 15.5 Ceteth-20 HLB =15.7 Isoceteth-20 HLB = 15.7 Polysorbate 20 HLB = 16.7 Laureth-23 HLB =16.9

Composition B may further comprise one or more cationic or cationizablesurfactants with the general formulaR₁₆-A-R₁₇-Bwherein R₁₆ is a saturated or unsaturated, straight or branched alkylgroup with 8 to 24 C atoms, R₁₇ is a straight or branched alkyl groupwith 1 to 4 C atoms, A is a group selected from O,

and B is selected from

wherein R₁₈ and R₁₉ are the same or different is H or an alkyl with 1 to4 C atoms, hydroxyl alkyl with 1 to 4 C atoms and dihydroxyl alkyl with2 to 4 C atoms,

R₂₀, and R₂₁ are the same or different, an alkyl with 1 to 4 C atoms,hydroxyl alkyl with 1 to 4 C atoms and dihydroxyl alkyl with 2 to 4 Catoms, R₂₂ is an alkyl with 1 to 4 C atoms, hydroxyl alkyl with 1 to 4 Catoms or dihydroxyl alkyl with 2 to 4 C atoms and—R₁₇-A-R₁₆wherein R₁₆, A and R₁₇ have the above meaning and X is chloride,bromide, methosulfate,ora quaternary ammonium surfactant according to the general formula

where R₂₃ is a saturated or unsaturated, branched or non-branched alkylchain with 8-24 C atoms and R₂₄ is unsaturated or saturated, branched ornon-branched alkyl chain with 1-24 C atoms and R₂₅ and R₂₆ are loweralkyl chain with 1 to 4 carbon atoms which may be substituted with oneor more hydroxyl groups, and X is anion such as chloride, bromide,methosulfate, up to 15% by weight calculated to total of Composition B.

Non-limiting suitable examples are stearyloxypropyl amine,palmityloxypropyl amine, stearyloxypropyldimethyl amine,stearyloxypropyldiethyl amine, stearyloxyethylyldimethyl amine,stearyloxyethyl amine, myristyloxypropyl amine,myristyloxypropyldimethyl amine, palmitamidopropyl amine,palmitamidopropyl methylamine, palmitamidopropyl diethylamine,palmitamidopropyl dibutylamine, palmitamidopropyl buylamine,palmitamidopropyl dipropylamine, palmitamidopropyl propylamine,palmitamidopropyl dihydroxyethylamine, palmitamidopropylhydroxyethylamine, palmitamidopropyl dihydroxypropylamine,palmitamidopropyl hydroxypropylamine, lauramidopropyl amine,lauramidopropyl methylamine, lauramidopropyl diethylamine,lauramidopropyl dibutylamine, lauramidopropyl buylamine, lauramidopropyldipropylamine, lauramidopropyl propylamine, lauramidopropyldihydroxyethylamine, lauramidopropyl hydroxyethylamine, lauramidopropyldihydroxypropylamine, lauramidopropyl hydroxypropylamine,stearamidopropyl amine, stearamidopropyl methylamine, stearamidopropyldiethylamine, stearamidopropyl dibutylamine, stearamidopropylbutylamine, stearamidopropyl dipropylamine, behenamidopropylpropylamine, behenamidopropyl dihydroxyethylamine, behenamidopropylhydroxyethylamine, behenamidopropyl dihydroxypropylamine,behenamidopropyl hydroxypropylamine, behenamidopropyl amine,behenamidopropyl methylamine, behenamidopropyl diethylamine,behenamidopropyl dibutylamine, behenamidopropyl butylamine,behenamidopropyl dipropylamine, behenamidopropyl propylamine,behenamidopropyl dihydroxyethylamine, behenamidopropylhydroxyethylamine, behenamidopropyl dihydroxypropylamine,behenamidopropyl hydroxypropylamine, dipalmitamidopropyl methylamine,dipalmitamidopropyl ethylamine, dipalmitamidopropyl butylamine,dipalmitamidopropyl propylamine, dipalmitamidopropyl hydroxyethylamine,dipalmitamidopropyl hydroxypropylamine, dilauramidopropyl amine,dilauramidopropyl methylamine, dilauramidopropyl buylamine,dilauramidopropyl hydroxyethylamine, dilauramidopropylhydroxypropylamine, distearamidopropyl amine, distearamidopropylmethylamine, dibehenamidopropyl propylamine, dibehenamidopropylhydroxyethylamine, palmitoamidopropyl trimethyl ammonium chloride,stearamidopropyl trimethylammonium chloride, behenamidopropyl trihydroxyethalmonium chloride, distearylamidopropyl dimethyl ammoniumchloride, dicetylamidodihydroxyethyl ammonium chloride, palmitoylpropylamine, palmitoylpropyl methylamine, palmitoylpropyl diethylamine,palmitoylpropyl dibutylamine, palmitoylpropyl buylamine, palmitoylpropyldipropylamine, palmitoylpropyl propylamine, palmitoylpropyldihydroxyethylamine, palmitoylpropyl hydroxyethylamine, palmitoylpropyldihydroxypropylamine, palmitoylpropyl hydroxypropylamine,myristoylpropyl amine, myristoylpropyl methylamine, myristoylpropyldiethylamine, myristoylpropyl dibutylamine, myristoylpropyl buylamine,myristoylpropyl dipropylamine, myristoylpropyl propylamine,myristoylpropyl dihydroxyethylamine, myristoylpropyl hydroxyethylamine,myristoylpropyl dihydroxypropylamine, myristoylpropylhydroxypropylamine, stearoylpropyl amine, stearoylpropyl methylamine,stearoylpropyl diethylamine, stearoylpropyl dibutylamine, stearoylpropylbutylamine, stearoylpropyl dipropylamine, behenylpropyl propylamine,behenylpropyl dihydroxyethylamine, behenylpropyl hydroxyethylamine,behenylpropyl dihydroxypropylamine, behenylpropyl hydroxypropylamine,behenylpropyl amine, behenylpropyl methylamine, behenylpropyldiethylamine, behenylpropyl dibutylamine, behenylpropyl butylamine,behenylpropyl dipropylamine, behenylpropyl propylamine, behenylpropyldihydroxyethylamine, behenylpropyl hydroxyethylamine, behenylpropyldihydroxypropylamine, behenylpropyl hydroxypropylamine,dipalmitoylpropyl methylamine, dipalmitoylpropyl ethylamine,dipalmitylpropyl butylamine, dipalmitylpropyl propylamine,dipalmitylpropyl hydroxyethylamine, dipalmitylpropyl hydroxypropylamine,dilauroylpropyl amine, dilauroylpropyl methylamine, dilauroylpropylbuylamine, dilauroylpropyl hydroxyethylamine, dilauroylpropylhydroxypropylamine, distearylpropyl amine, distearylpropyl methylamine,dibehenylpropyl propylamine, dibehenylpropyl hydroxyethylamine,palmitylpropyl trimethyl ammonium chloride, stearylpropyltrimethylammonium chloride, behenylpropyl tri hydroxyethalmoniumchloride, distearylpropyl dimethyl ammonium chloride,dicetyldihydroxyethyl ammonium chloride, dioleoylethylhydroxyethylmoniummethosulfate, dicocoylethylhydroxyethylmonium methosulfate,cetyltrimethyl ammonium chloride, steartrimonium chloride,behentrimonium chloride, myristyltrimethyl ammonium chloride,distearyldimethyl ammonium chloride, and dibehenyldimethyl ammoniumchloride.

In a further preferred embodiment of the present invention composition Bcomprise at least one silicone surfactant preferably at a concentrationof 0.1 to 5%, more preferably 0.1 to 3%, most preferably 0.2 to 2%calculated to total of composition B. Preferred silicone surfactants areethoxylated and/or propoxylated dimethicones.

Non-limiting suitable examples are PEG/PPG 3/10 dimethicone, PEG/PPG4/12 dimethicone, PEG/PPG 6/4 dimethicone, PEG/PPG 6/11-dimethicone,PEG/PPG 8/14 dimethicone, PEG/PPG 8/26 dimethicone, PEG/PPG 12/16dimethicone, PEG/PPG 12/18 dimethicone, PEG/PPG 15/15 dimethicone,PEG/PPG 17/18 dimethicone, PEG/PPG 18/12 dimethicone, PEG/PPG 18/18dimethicone, PEG/PPG 19/19 dimethicone, PEG/PPG 15/20 dimethicone,PEG/PPG 20/20 dimethicone, PEG/PPG 20/23 dimethicone, PEG/PPG 20/29dimethicone, PEG/PPG 22/23 dimethicone, PEG/PPG 22/24 dimethicone,PEG/PPG 25/25 dimethicone, PEG/PPG 27/27 dimethicone, PEG/PPG 20/29dimethicone and PEG/PPG 20/29 dimethicone.

Composition B may further comprise one or more fatty alcohol of thegeneral formulaR₂₇—OHwherein R₁₃ is a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated,substituted or unsubstitited alkyl chain with 12 to 22 C atoms.

Suitable fatty alcohols are myristyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, stearylalcohol and behenyl alcohol and their mixtures. Most preferred is themixture of cetyl and stearyl alcohol also known as cetearyl alcohol.

The concentration of one or more fatty alcohols is in the range of 0.1to 10%, preferably 0.5 to 7.5%, more preferably 0.5 to 5% and mostpreferably 1 to 5% by weight calculated to total of composition B.

The composition B may further comprise hair-conditioning agents.Conditioning agents can be selected from oily substances, non-ionicsubstances, cationic amphiphilic ingredients, cationic polymers or theirmixtures. Cationic amphiphilic compounds are the quaternary ammoniumcompounds mentioned above.

Oily substances are selected from such as silicone oils, either volatileor non-volatile, natural and synthetic oils. Among silicone oils thosecan be added to the compositions include dimethicone, dimethiconol,polydimethylsiloxane, DC fluid ranges from Dow Corning, as well asaminated silicones such as amodimethicone, aminopropyl phenyltrimethicone; arylated silicones with one to 5 phenyl groups in itsmolecule such as trimethylpentaphenyl trisiloxane, phenyl trimethicone,triphenly trimethicone and cyclic siloxanes such as cyclomethicone,cyclotrisiloxane, cyclopentasilioxane, cycloheptasiloxane andcyclotrisiloxane. Natural oils such as olive oil, almond oil, avocadooil, wheatgerm oil and ricinus oil may be included as conditioningagents in the composition B.

Synthetic oils may be included in composition B as conditioning agentsuch as mineral oil, alkyl esters of fatty acids such as isopropylmyristate, palmitate, stearate and isostearate, oleyl oleate, isocetylstearate, hexyl laurate, dibutyl adipate, dioctyl-adipate, myristylmyristate and oleyl erucate.

Further conditioning agents may be polyols such as glycerin, glycol andderivatives, polyethyleneglycoles known with trade names Carbowax PEGfrom Union Carbide and Polyox WSR range from Amerchol, polyglycerin,polyethyleneglycol mono or di fatty acid esters having general formulaR₂₈CO(OCH₂CH₂)_(n)OHorR₂₈CO(OCH₂CH₂)_(n)OOCR₂₉where R₂₈ and R₂₉ are independent from each other saturated, unsaturatedor branched or non-branched alkyl chain with 7 to 21 C atoms and n istypically 2-100.

Additionally composition B may comprise one or more cationic polymers asconditioning agents. Suitable cationic polymers are those of known withtheir CTFA category name Polyquaternium. Typical examples of thosePolyquaternium 6, Polyquaternium 7, Polyquaternium 10, Polyquaternium11, Polyquaternium 16, Polyquaternium 22, Polyquaternium 28,Polyquaternium 70, Polyquaternium 67, and Polyquaternium 87.

The cationic polymers also include the quaternized products of graftpolymers from organopolysiloxanes and polyethyl oxazolines described inEP-A 524 612 and EP-A 640 643.

The composition B according to the invention may also comprise furtherconditioning substances such as protein hydrolyzates and polypeptides,e.g., keratin hydrolyzates, collagen hydrolyzates of the type“Nutrilan®” or elastin hydrolyzates, as well as also in particular plantprotein hydrolyzates, optionally, cationized protein hydrolyzates, e.g.,“Gluadin®”.

Additional natural plant extracts can as well form part of thecomposition B of the present invention. Those are incorporated usuallyin an amount of about 0.01% to about 10%, preferably 0.05% to 7.5%, inparticular 0.1% to 5% by weight, calculated as dry residue thereof tothe total composition. Suitable aqueous (e.g. steam-distilled) alcoholicor hydro-alcoholic plant extracts known per se are in particularextracts from leaves, fruits, blossoms, roots, rinds or stems of aloe,pineapple, artichoke, arnica, avocado, valerian, bamboo, green tea, bluelotus flower, henbane, birch, stinging nettle, echinacea, ivy, wildangelica, gentian, ferns, pine needles, silver weed, ginseng, broom,oat, rose hip, hamamelis, hay flowers, elderberry, hop, coltsfoot,currants, chamomile, carrots, chestnuts, clover, burr root, cocoanut,cornflower, lime blossom, lily of the valley, marine algae, balm,mistletoe, passion flower, ratanhia, marigold, rosemary, horse chestnut,pink hawthorn, sage, horsetail, yarrow, primrose, nettle, thyme, walnut,wine leaves, white hawthorn, etc.

Suitable trade products are, for example, the various “Extrapone”products and “Herbasol®”. Extracts and the preparation thereof are alsodescribed in “Hagers Handbuch der pharmazeutischen Praxis”, 4^(th) Ed.

The composition B can comprise one or more organic solvents such asethanol. propanol, isopropanol, benzyl alcohol, benzyloxyethanol,alkylene carbonates such as ethylene carbonate and propylene carbonate,phenoxyethanol, butanol, isobutanol, cyclohexane, cyclohexanol,hexyleneglycol, ethylenecarbonate, ethyleneglycol monoethylether,ethylene glycol monobutyl ether, ethylene glycol monophenyl ether,1-phenylethylalcohol, 2-phenylethylalcohol, o-methoxyphenol.Concentration of organic solvent can be in the range of 1 to 40%,preferably 1 to 25% by weight, calculated to total composition prior tomixing with oxidizing agent.

Composition B of the present invention can comprise UV filters forprotection of hair from enviroental influences such as loss ofelasticity, loss of hair colour (bleaching effect of sun light). TheUV-absorbing substance is preferably selected from the followingcompounds: 4-Aminobenzoic acid and the esters and salts thereof,2-phenyl benzimidazole-5-sulfonic acid and the alkali and amine saltsthereof, 4-dimethyl aminobenzoic acid and the esters and salts thereof,cinnamic acid and the esters and salts thereof, 4-methoxycinnamic acidand the esters and salts thereof, salicylic acid and the esters andsalts thereof, 2.4-dihydroxybenzophenone,2.2′.4.4′-tetrahydroxy-benzophenone, 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone andits 5-sulfonic acid or the sodium salt thereof,2,2′-dihydroxy-4,4′-dimethoxybenzophenone,2-hydroxy-5-chlorobenzophenone, 2,2′-dihydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone,2.2′-dihydroxy-4.4′-dimethoxy-5.5′-disulfobenzo-phenone or the sodiumsalt thereof, 2-hydroxy-4-octyloxybenzophenone,2-hydroxy-4-methoxy-4′-methyl benzophenone, 3-benzyl-idenecampher,3-(4′-sulfo)-benzyl-idenebornane-2-one and the salts thereof and/or3-(4′-methyl benzylidene)-DL-campher, polysilicone-15. The preferredamount of the UV-absorber ranges from about 0.01% to 2.5%, morepreferably from 0.05% to 1% by weight, calculated to the totalcomposition.

It should be noted that for levelling hair colour within the meaning ofthe present invention, hair dyes are not required, especially when thisis done on a previously partly or as a whole bleached hair.

On the other hand, in principal any kind of hair dye may be included inthe compositions of the present invention.

One or more oxidative dye precursors can be comprised in composition Bin case the leveling process is carried out on a lighter coloured hair.On the other hand, oxidative dye precursors may also be used if suchleveling process is carried out for previously bleached hair dependingon the target colour direction, warmer colours including more of goldenand red tones as well as cooler colours including ash, matt and violetmay require use of oxidative dye precursors. It should be noted thatleveling is carried out in the absence and as well in the presence ofoxidative dye precursors. Suitable oxidative dyestuffs precursors, ifrequired, are tetraminopyrimidines, in particular2,4,5,6-tetraminopyrimidine and the lower alkyl derivatives thereof;suitable triaminohydroxypyrimidines are, for example4-hydroxy-2,5,6-triaminopyrimidine, 2-hydroxy-4,5,6-triaminopyrimidineand 5-hydroxy-2,4,6-triaminopyrimidine; suitable mono- and diaminodihydroxypyrimidines are, for example,2,6-dihydroxy-4,5-diaminopyrimidine, 2,4-diamino-6-hydroxy-pyrimidine or4,6-dihydroxy-2,5-diaminopyrimidine or the water-soluble salts thereof,aminophenol derivatives such as 4-aminophenol, 4-amino-3-methylphenol,2-chloro-4-aminophenol, 2,6-dichloro-4-aminophenol, 2,4-diamino-phenol,2,6-dibromo-4-aminophenol and/or 2-aminophenol and water-soluble saltsthereof, furthermore, phenylenedimanine derivatives such as2,5-diamino-toluene, 2-n-propyl or 2-ethyl-p-phenylene-diamine,2,6-dimethyl-p-phenylenediamine, 2-(2,5-diaminophenyl)ethanol,1-amino-4-bis-(2′-hydroxy-ethyl)aminobenzene,2-(2-hydroxyethylamino)-5-aminotoluene, 4,4′-diaminodiphenylamine,4-aminodiphenylamine, 2-amino-5-N,N-diethyl aminotoluene,4-amino-N-ethyl-N-isopropyl aniline, 2-chloro-p-phenylenediamine,1-β-hydroxyethyl-2,5-diamino-4-chlorobenzene,1-β-hydroxyethyl-2,5-diamino-4-methyl benzene,2-methoxy-p-phenylenediamine, N,N-diethyl-p-phenylenediamine,1-amino-4-β-methoxyethyl aminobenzene, 1-dimethyl-amino-4-aminobenzene,1-hydroxy-2,5-diamino-4-methyl benzene,1-hydroxymethyl-2,5-diaminobenzene, 1,3-dimethyl-2,5-diaminobenzene,1,4-diamino isopropyl benzene and/or 1-amino-4-β-hydroxypropylaminobenzene or the water-soluble salts thereof, pyrazole derivativessuch as 1-hydroxyethyl-4,5-diaminopyrazole,3,4-diamino-5-hydroxypyrazole, 3,5-diaminopyrazole, 3,5-diaminopyrazol-1-carboxamide, 3-amino-5-hydroxypyrazole,1-phenyl-2-methylpyrazole, 1-phenyl-3-methylpyrazole-5-one,3,5-dimethylpyrazole, 3,5-dimethylpyrazole-1-methanol,1-methyl-4,5-diaminopyrazole, 1-methylethyl-4,5-diaminopyrazole,1-phenylmethyl-4,5-diaminopyrazole, 1-methyl-4,5-diaminopyrazole,1-(4-methylphenyl)methyl-4,5-diaminopyrazole,1-methyl-3-phenyl-4,5-diaminopyrazole and the water-soluble salts. Theuse of the above mentioned oxidative dye precursors as mixture is alsocustomary in hair coloring area.

The total concentration of the oxidation dyestuff precursors and/ortheir water soluble salts if required may vary between 0.0001% and 1%,preferably 0.001% and 1%, in particular 0.001% to 0.5% by weight,calculated to the total of composition B.

The composition B may as well comprise in addition to the oxidative dyeprecursors at least one coupling substance, which can be selected fromresorcinol, 2-methyl resorcinol, 4-chlororesorcinol,2-amino-4-chlorophenol, 5-amino-4-methoxy-2-methylphenol,3-amino-phenol, 1-methyl-2-hydroxy-4-aminobenzene, 3-N,N-dimethylaminophenol, 2.6-dihydroxy-3.5-dimethoxypyridine,5-amino-3-methylphenol, 6-amino-3-methylphenol,3-amino-2-methylamino-6-methoxypyridine, 2-amino-3-hydroxy-pyridine,2-dimethyl-amino-5-aminopyridine, 2,6-diaminopyridine,1,3-diamino-benzene, 1-amino-3-(2′-hy-droxyethylamino)benzene,1-amino-3-[bis(2′-hydroxy-ethyl)amino]benzene, α-naphthol,4,6-dichlororesorcinol, 1,3-diamino-toluene, 1-hydroxy naphthalene,4-hydroxy-1,2-methylenedioxy benzene, 1,5-dihydroxy naphthalene,1,6-dihydroxy naphthalene, 1,7-dihydroxy naphthalene, 2,7-dihydroxynaphthalene, 1-hydroxy-2-methyl naphthalene, 4-hydroxy-1.2-methyldioxybenzene, 2,4-diamino-3-chlorophenol, 5-amino-2-methoxyphenol and/or1-methoxy-2-amino-4-(2′-hydroxyethyl amino)benzene or the water-solublesalts thereof. However, this shall not exclude the addition of furtherdeveloping and coupling substances. In case oxidative dye precursors areused, preferably composition B comprises additionally at least onecoupling agent.

The concentration of coupling substances is customarily adjusted to theconcentration of developing, oxidative dye precursor, substances.

The composition B can further comprise additionally direct dyes ofneutral, cationic and anionic character. Some examples to suitablecationic dyes are Basic Blue 6, Basic Blue 7, Basic Blue 9, Basic Blue26, Basic Blue 41, Basic Blue 99, Basic Brown 4, Basic Brown 16, BasicBrown 17, Natural Brown 7, Basic Green 1, Basic Red 2, Basic Red 12Basic Red 22, Basic Red 51, Basic Red 76, Basic Violet 1, Basic Violet2, Basic Violet 3, Basic Violet 10, Basic Violet 14 and Basic Yellow 57.According to the invention, suitable cationic dyestuffs are in principalthose any available on the market for cosmetic hair colouringapplications. For this purpose, special reference is made to the PCTapplication WO 95/15144 of Ciba-Geigy AG. The content of the PCTapplication WO 95/15144 is by reference incorporated here.

Examples to suitable direct acting anionic dyes are Acid Black 1, AcidBlue 1, Acid Blue 3, Food Blue 5, Acid Blue 7, Acid Blue 9, Acid Blue74, Acid Orange 3, Acid Orange 6, Acid Orange 7, Acid Orange 10, AcidRed 1, Acid Red 14, Acid Red 18, Acid Red 27, Acid Red 50, Acid Red 52,Acid Red 73, Acid Red 87, Acid Red 88, Acid Red 92, Acid Red 155, AcidRed 180, Acid Violet 9, Acid Violet 43, Acid Violet 49, Acid Yellow 1,Acid Yellow 23, Acid Yellow 3, Food Yellow No. 8, D&C Brown No. 1, D&CGreen No. 5, D&C Green No. 8, D&C Orange No. 4, D&C Orange No. 10, D&COrange No. 11, D&C Red No. 21, D&C Red No. 27, D&C Red No. 33, D&CViolet 2, D&C Yellow No. 7, D&C Yellow No. 8, D&C Yellow No. 10, FD&CRed 2, FD&C Red 40, FD&C Red No. 4, FD&C Yellow No. 6, FD&C Blue 1, FoodBlack 1, Food Black 2, Disperse Black 9 and Disperse Violet 1 and theiralkali metal salts such as sodium, potassium.

Some examples to those suitable neutral dyes (HC dyes), so called nitrodyes, are HC Blue No. 2, HC Blue No. 4, HC Blue No. 5, HC Blue No. 6, HCBlue No. 7, HC Blue No. 8, HC Blue No. 9, HC Blue No. 10, HC Blue No.11, HC Blue No. 12, HC Blue No. 13, HC Brown No. 1, HC Brown No. 2, HCGreen No. 1, HC Orange No. 1, HC Orange No. 2, HC Orange No. 3, HCOrange No. 5, HC Red BN, HC Red No. 1, HC Red No. 3, HC Red No. 7, HCRed No. 8, HC Red No. 9, HC Red No. 10, HC Red No. 11, HC Red No. 13, HCRed No. 54, HC Red No. 14, HC Violet BS, HC Violet No. 1, HC Violet No.2, HC Yellow No. 2, HC Yellow No. 4, HC Yellow No. 5, HC Yellow No. 6,HC Yellow No. 7, HC Yellow No. 8, HC Yellow No. 9, HC Yellow No. 10, HCYellow No. 11, HC Yellow No. 12, HC Yellow No. 13, HC Yellow No. 14, HCYellow No. 15, 2-Amino-6-chloro-4-nitrophenol, picramic acid,1,2-Diamino-4-nitrobenzol, 1,4-Diamino-2-nitrobenzol,3-Nitro-4-aminophenol, 1-Hydroxy-2-amino-3-nitrobenzol and2-hydroxyethylpicramic acid.

The total concentration of direct dyes and/or their water soluble saltsif required may vary between 0.0001% and 1%, preferably 0.001% and 1%,in particular 0.001% to 0.5% by weight, calculated to the total ofcomposition B.

The composition B may further comprise an organopolysiloxane wherein atleast one silicon atom is linked to an alkylene group having ahetero-atom, in particular a nitrogen atom, with a poly-(N-acylalkyleneimine) units of the formula

wherein n is a number from 1 to 5 and R₃₀ is hydrogen, a C₁-C₁₂-alkyl orcycloalkyl, aralkyl or aryl group.

Preferred organopolysiloxane polymers are those of the type disclosed inEP-A 640 643, in particular optionally quaternized aminoalkyl, inparticular aminopropyl dimethyl polysiloxane/polyethyl oxazolinecopolymers of the formula

wherein m and n each are numbers from 20 to 10,000, in particular 50 to7,000, especially 100 to 5,000, x is a number between 1 and 5,preferably 3, and y is a number from 5 to 30, R₃₁ is a C₁-C₁₂-alkyl oraryl group, in particular a methyl, ethyl or benzyl group, and Y⁻ is ananion.

Especially suited are the organopolysiloxanes disclosed under the termsA-1, A-2 and A-3 on pages 12 to 13 of EP-A 640 643. The proportion ofgraft copolymers in the hair colouring compositions according to theinvention ranges from 0.05% to 5%, preferably 0.1% to 2.5%, inparticular 0.5% to 1.5% by weight, calculated to the total composition.

Another compound that may be comprised in the colouring compositioncomprising at least one oxidative dye precursor is a ceramide type ofcompounds according to the general formula

wherein R₃₂ and R₃₃ are independent from each other alkyl- or alkenylgroup with 10 to 22 carbon atoms, R₃₄ is methyl, ethyl, n-propyl orisopropyl group and n is a number between 1 to 6, preferably 2 or 3. Theconcentration of the ceramide type of compound in colouring compositionsof the present invention can be in the range of 0.01 to 2 and especially0.01 to 1% by weight calculated to the total composition.

Preferred ceramide compound is cetyl-PG-hydroxyethylpalmitamide.

Sterols, especially the phytosterols, may as well be comprised inComposition B. Suitable ones are especially of plant origin for exampleergosterol, sitosterol, stigmasterol, fucosterol, brassicasterol,fungisterol, campesterol, zymosterol, ascosterol, cerevisterol,episterol, faecosterol, spinasterol.

The concentration of ceramide may be in the range of 0.01 to 2% andphytosterol may be comprised in the range of 0.01 to 0.5% by weightcalculated to the total of composition B.

The compositions A and/or B may further comprise one or more ubiquinoneof the formula.

wherein n is a number from 1 to 10. The concentration of ubichinones inthe compositions of the present invention can vary between 0.001% and10% by weight, calculated to the total composition excluding theoxidizing agent.

The composition B of the present invention may comprise compounds foraccelerating (catalysts) the oxidative dyeing keratin fibres such asiodine salts i.e. potassium or sodium iodide and/or dihydroxy acetone.

Further compositions A and/or B can comprise yogurt powder at aconcentration of 0.01 to 5% by weight calculated to total of thecompositions A or B, which is a raw material prepared by spray drying ofnatural yoghurt after completion of fermentation. Yogurt powdercomprises the following major components:

-   -   approximately 53.5% lactose,    -   approximately 25% proteins,    -   approximately 7.5% lactic acid,    -   approximately 5% minerals and trace elements,    -   approximately 1% vitamines, and    -   approximately 2% lipids.

Composition A and/or B may comprise at least one diamide compound.Preferred diamide compounds are according to the general structure

wherein R₃₅ is a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated alkylchain with 1 to 12 C atoms which may be substituted with hydroxy and/oralkoxy groups, preferably R₃₅ is linear or branched, saturated orunsaturated alkyl chain with 1 to 12 C atoms which may be substituted by1 to 3 substituents selected from a hydroxy group and C1 to C6 alkoxygroup, more preferably R₃₅ is a unsubstituted alkyl group with 1 to 12 Catoms, and alkyl group with 2 to 12 C atoms substituted by one or twohydroxyl groups, by one alkoxy group with 1 to 6 C atoms or by onehydroxyl and one alkoxy group with 2 to 6 C atoms, R₃₆ is linear orbranched alkyl chain with 1 to 5 C atoms, preferably linear or branchedalkyl chain with 2 to 5 C atoms and more preferably an alkyl chain with2 to 3 C atoms, and R₃₇ linear or branched, saturated or unsaturatedalkyl chain with 1 to 22 C atoms, preferably linear or branched,saturated or unsaturated alkyl chain with 11 to 22 C atoms.

Preferred individual diamide compounds are the ones according to theformula A to G.

Particularly preferred diamide compound is the compound F which is bis(methoxypropylamido) isodocosane and commercially available from KaoCorporation—Japan.

Concentration of diamide compounds in the compositions A and/or B of thepresent invention is in the range of 0.001 to 5%, preferably 0.002 to 3%more preferably 0.005 to 2% and most preferably 0.01 to 1% by weightcalculated to total of the compositions A or B.

Compositions A and/or B may further comprise particulate matter such assynthetic mica. Use of synthetic mica coated with metal oxide or oxidesmainly in decorative cosmetics is disclosed in an international patentapplication of Sun Chemical Corporation published with a number WO2005/065632 A1. In the document synthetic mica and coated synthetic micawith at least one metal oxide or oxides is disclosed in detail, thecontent of the document is included herewith by reference.

Suitable metal oxide or oxides for coating synthetic mica are titaniumdioxide, chromium oxide, ferric oxide or mixtures thereof. In thepresent invention the preferred is synthetic mica coated with titaniumdioxide. Such materials are commercially available from Sun ChemicalCorporation and are known with their INCI names SyntheticFluorphologopite.

The particle size distribution of synthetic mica coated with a metaloxide or oxides is in the range of 1 to 750 μm, preferably 1 to 250 μm,more preferably 1 to 100 μm and most preferably 20 to 95 μm. Theparticle sizes referred are relating to the volume particle sizedistribution meaning that particles found in the coated synthetic micahaving volume particle size in the given ranges.

Concentration of synthetic mica coated with at least metal oxide oroxides is from 0.001 to 10%, preferably 0.05 to 7.5%, more preferably0.1 to 5% and most preferably 0.25 to 2.5% by weight calculated to totalof the compositions A or B.

Composition B may further comprise one or more dipeptide. Non-limitingexamples to the suitable dipeptides are the ones commercially availableand known with their INCI name as Dipeptide-1, Dipeptide-2, Dipeptide-3,Dipeptide-4, Dipeptide-5, Dipeptide-6, Dipeptide-7, Dipeptide-8, andcarnosine. The most preferred is carnosine and is containing β-alaninand L-histidine.

Concentration of at least one dipeptide is in the range of 0.01 to 5%,preferably 0.05 to 3% and more preferably 0.1 to 2.5% and mostpreferably 0.2 to 1.5% by weight calculated to the total of thecompositions A or B.

Composition A comprises at least one oxidizing agent, preferably at aconcentration of at least 1% by weight calculated to total ofcomposition A, preferably between 1 and 12% and more preferably 1 and 9%and most preferably 2 and 6% and in particular 2 to 3% by weightcalculated to total of composition A.

In principal any oxidizing agent is suitable such as hydrogen peroxide,urea peroxide, melamine peroxide and perborate salts. The most preferredis hydrogen peroxide.

Composition A can further comprise ingredients commonly used incompositions comprising oxidizing agents such as stabilizers forperoxide compounds such as phenacetin, salicylic acid, chelating agentssuch as etidronic acid, EDTA and/or their salts, organic or inorganicacids such as phosphoric acid, lactic acid, for adjusting pH,surfactants in order to increase miscibility and solubilising aid forwater insoluble and/or sparingly soluble substances such as fragrancesand anti-foaming agents such as silicone compounds.

Compositions A and B are mixed at a weight ratio of Composition A toComposition B in the range between 5:1 to 1:5, preferably between 3:1 to1:3, more preferably between 2:1 to 1:2, and most preferably between 2:1to 1:1. pH of the composition thus obtained and ready to use is in therange between 5 and 12, preferably between 6 and 11, more preferablybetween 6.5 and 11 most preferably between 8 and 10.5.

It has been found out that the viscosity may play an important factor incarrying out the process in a short period of time because the mixedcomposition is applied only at one part or certain parts of hair. Inorder to have easy and quick application in order to secure homogeneouseffect of the composition and process and as well as rinsing off oncethe processing time has lapsed, ready to use composition, i.e. aftermixing the compositions A and B, preferably has a viscosity in the rangebetween 1000 and 15000 mPa·s., preferably between 1500 and 10000 mPa·s.and more preferably between 2000 and 7500 mPa·s. measured at 20° C. witha rotation viscosimeter, preferably with a Brookfiled viscosimeter at 10rpm with a spindle 5.

In order to adjust the viscosity of the compositions of the presentinvention thickening agents can be used. Suitable and preferred ones arethe non-ionic thickeners such as celluose and its derivatives such ashydroxyethyl cellulose, hydroxyethyl ethyl cellulose, hydroxypropylcellulose, hydroxypropyl methyl clullose, methyl ethylcellulose, andmethyl hydroxyethylcellulose and guar and its derivatives such ashydroxypropy guar. Anionic acrylate based thickeners can also be used.

The following examples are to illustrate the invention but not limit it.

EXAMPLE 1

% by weight Composition A Hydrogen peroxide 3.0 Phosphoric acid q.s. topH 3.0 Phenacetin 0.1 EDTA 0.3 Water q.s. to 100 Composition B Oleicacid 9.0 Cocamidopropylbetaine 18.0 Ammonium hydroxide 4.0 Water q.s. to100

The Composition B had a pH of 10.5

The above compositions A and B were mixed at a weight ratio of 2:1 (A:B)and the ready to use composition had a pH of 9.5.

The above composition was applied to the grown natural hair having amedium blonde colour after mixing as given above onto previously lightblonde coloured hair. The hair was coloured approximately 6 weeks beforethe current leveling process. After processing of 5 min the hair wasrinsed of and dried with a hair drier.

It was observed that the hair colour was more homogeneous and the colourof the rewgrowth area was much closer. Additionally, volunteers, 5people, were asked if they had any scalp problems during and also afterthe treatment, no negatives were mentioned. The same question was askedagain 3 days after the leveling service and no complaints were noted.

Same results were observed with the same composition wherein amphotericsurfactant was replaced with cocoyl betaine.

Similar results were observed with the following examples.

EXAMPLE 2

% by weight Composition A Hydrogen peroxide 4.0 Phosphoric acid q.s. topH 3.0 Phenacetin 0.1 EDTA 0.3 Water q.s. to 100 Composition BCocamidopropyl betaine 10.0 Cocoyl betaine 5.0 Oleic acid 9.0 Sodiumlaureth sulfate 8.0 PEG/PPG-20/23 Dimethicone 1.0 Dimethicone 0.5Ubichinone 0.01 Monoethanolamine 4.0 Water q.s. to 100

The Composition B had a pH of 10.5

The above compositions A and B were mixed at a weight ratio of 1:1 (A:B)and the ready to use composition had a pH of 9.5 and viscosity ofapproximately 5,200 mPa·s. measured at 20° C. with a Brookfieldviscosimeter using Spindle 5 at 5 rpm.

EXAMPLE 3

% by weight Composition A Hydrogen peroxide 4.0 Cetearyl alcohol 1.0Ceteareth-20 0.5 Phosphoric acid q.s. to pH 3.0 Phenacetin 0.1 EDTA 0.3Water q.s. to 100 Composition B Cocamidopropyl betaine 10.0 Cocoylbetaine 5.0 Oleic acid 9.0 Laureth-2 6.0 Oleic acid 9.0 Sodium laurethsulphate 2.0 Glycol distearate 2.8 Glyceryl stearate SE 1.2PEG/PPG-20/23 Dimethicone 1.0 Dimethicone 0.5 p-Toluenediamine sulfate0.06 Resorcinol 0.01 m-Aminophenol 0.01 HC Blue 5 0.01 Sodium sulfit 0.3Monoethanolamine 4.2 Water q.s. to 100

The Composition B had a pH of 10.5

The above compositions A and B were mixed at a weight ratio of 1:1 (A:B)and the ready to use composition had a pH of 9.7 and viscosity ofapproximately 5,800 mPa·s. measured at 20° C. with a Brookfieldviscosimeter using Spindle 5 at 5 rpm.

The HLB value of the non-ionic surfactant system is calculated asfollows:

Conc. Mo- Mol HLB % by lecular Conc. fraction HLB Contri- weight weightMol (%) Value¹ bution² Laureth-2 6.0 274 0.0219 73.1 6.2 4.53 Glycoldistearate 2.8 594 0.0047 15.7 1.0 0.16 Glyceryl 1.2 358 0.0034 11.1 5.50.62 stearate SE Total 0.0601 100.0 5.31 ¹HLB value of the puresurfactant ²HLB contribution is calculated by multiplying HLB value ofpure surfactant multiplied by its mol fraction in %.

The nonionic surfactant system in the Composition B has a calculated HLBvalue of 5.31.

EXAMPLE 4

% by weight Composition A Hydrogen peroxide 4.0 Cetearyl alcohol 1.0Ceteareth-20 0.5 Phosphoric acid q.s. to pH 3.0 Phenacetin 0.1 EDTA 0.3Water q.s. to 100 Composition B Cocamidopropyl betaine 10.0 Cocoylbetaine 5.0 Oleic acid 9.0 Sodium laureth sulphate 5.0 Laureth-2 3.0Oleic acid 9.0 Glycol distearate 1.4 Glyceryl stearate SE 0.6PEG/PPG-20/23 Dimethicone 1.0 Dimethicone 0.5 p-Toluenediamine sulfate0.06 Resorcinol 0.01 m-Aminophenol 0.01 HC Blue 5 0.01 Sodium sulfit 0.3Monoethanolamine 4.2 Water q.s. to 100

The Composition B had a pH of 10.5

EXAMPLE 5

% by weight Composition A Hydrogen peroxide 4.0 Cetearyl alcohol 1.0Ceteareth-20 0.5 Phosphoric acid q.s. to pH 3.0 Phenacetin 0.1 EDTA 0.3Water q.s. to 100 Composition B Cocamidopropyl betaine 10.0 Cocoylbetaine 5.0 Oleic acid 9.0 Sodium laureth sulphate 5.0 Laureth-2 3.0Oleic acid 9.0 Glycol distearate 1.4 Glyceryl stearate SE 0.6PEG/PPG-20/23 Dimethicone 1.0 Dimethicone 0.5 Basic red 51 0.01 Basicorange 0.01 Basic yellow 0.02 HC Blue 5 0.01 Monoethanolamine 4.2 Waterq.s. to 100

The Composition B had a pH of 10.5

1. Aqueous composition for levelling hair colour wherein it comprises atleast one fatty acid salt, an in-situ formed ammonium or substitutedammonium salt, and betaine type of amphoteric surfactants at a totalconcentration between 5 and 30% by weight, calculated to total of thecomposition, and having a pH between 5 and
 12. 2. The compositionaccording to claim 1, wherein fatty acid salt is selected from in-situformed ammonium or substituted ammonium salt of oleic and linoleic acidswherein the substituted ammonium is a compound according to generalstructureR₁R₂R₃N wherein R₁, R₂ and R₃ are same or different H, C₁-C₆ alkyl,C₁-C₆ monohydroxyalkyl or C₂-C₆ polyhydroxyalkyl with the condition thatat least one of R₁, R₂ and R₃ is a mono or polyhydroxyalkyl.
 3. Thecomposition according to claim 1, wherein it comprises additionally atleast one surfactant selected from anionic, cationic and nonionic onesat a total concentration up to 15% by weight calculated to total ofcomposition B.
 4. The composition according to claim 1, wherein itcomprises additionally one or more anionic surfactants at a totalconcentration up to 15% by weight calculated to total of composition B,at a weight ratio of amphoteric to anionic surfactants in the rangebetween 5:1 to 1:1.
 5. The composition according to claim 1, wherein itcomprises one or more non-ionic surfactants at a concentration up to 15%by weight calculated to total of composition B, with the conditionnon-ionic surfactant system has an HLB value not exceeding but including10, calculated from the mol fraction of individual non-ionic surfactantsexcluding non-ionic silicone surfactants in the non-ionic surfactantmixture and individual HLB values of non-ionic surfactant.
 6. Thecomposition according to claim 1, wherein it comprises at least one hairconditioning agent.
 7. The composition according to claim 1, wherein itcomprises at least one oxidative dye precursor, optionally at least onecoupling substance and optionally at least one direct dye, selected fromcationic and neutral nitro dyes.
 8. The composition according to claim1, wherein it comprises one or more of compounds selected fromthickeners, diamide compounds, ceramides, ubichinones, organic solventsand UV filters.
 9. Ready to use aqueous composition for levelling haircolour characterised in that it is resulting from mixing twocompositions A and B prior to application onto hair wherein compositionA comprises at least one oxidizing agent and has an acidic pH andcomposition B according to claim
 1. 10. Method of levelling hair colourcomprising at least two parts wherein one part being the part not closerto scalp which is artificially colour changed to a lighter colour bymeans of lightening and/or colouring and/or bleaching than the otherpart closer to scalp which is undamaged and has its natural colour,wherein hair is optionally shampooed and optionally towel dried and thepart directly at the scalp, undamaged and has its natural colour, isapplied a composition resulting from mixing two compositions, A and B,prior to application, wherein composition A comprises at least oneoxidizing agent and has an acidic pH, and composition B according toclaim 1, processed for up to 10 min, at a temperature between 20 and 45°C., and rinsed off from hair and hair is optionally dried.
 11. Methodaccording to claim 10, wherein the processing time is up to 5 min. 12.Method according to claim 10, wherein the compositions A and B are mixedat a weight ratio between 2:1 and 1:1.